We went to Kibale National Forest to track chimpanzees, and stayed in the best tree fort in the world.
The chimps were elusive, but one was curious and close.
The forest elephants never appeared, but we lit the night with a kerosene lantern and listened to the jungle. In the morning, when we left to try for the green breasted pitta, the moon was full as we walked the trail through the dark by ourselves.
“You are so courageous!” the hotel manager said, refusing to enter the forest on his own.
There were butterflies everywhere.
And Rachel learned to love spiders.