River of stars (7.27.12-#209)

At the very end of the transpanteniera, the road literally drops off into the river, no signs or warnings. The end of Mato Grosso state, the end of people access into the territory of jaguars, capybaras, endless herons — cocoi, rufescent tiger, striated. You can run on the red dusty road, surrounded by chattering chachaloca, gathering tiny insects in the sweat and repellent on your neck, greeted by hyacinth macaws, buff necked ibis, tame caracaras at the gate.

The Cuiaba river means “river of stars,” and as you head back to the lodge after your afternoon searching for jaguars in your tiny boat, you are enmeshed in hundreds of rufousy greater and lesser fishing bats madly dating around the boat. You move at the speed of the tiny glorious striated heron, even with the boat for dozens of metres, of the landscape.

20120802-113707.jpg

Advertisements

One response to “River of stars (7.27.12-#209)

  1. I imagine this would be about where D moved the van onto the railroad tracks to get to Bolivia. Now I know what I missed back here in California and pregnant. It sounds just gorgeous! Much more peaceful your way.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s