Eggs

I peel a hard boiled egg on the terrace of Cassia Lodge my last morning here. The egg has a minor role in a vast breakfast that also includes a fruit and yogurt course, some vegetables they steamed specially for me, some sweet little pancakes with passable syrup, fried potatoes. I gave the yogurt to… Continue reading Eggs

A Covid accent on everything

Ugandan accents are home to me now, the different regional languages fusing into a shared rhythm in English, alternately soothing and pocked with loud inflection, soft and punctuated with low growls that demonstrate that you are indeed listening to the person.  The upended, rhetorical question.  “We thought the pandemic was coming to an end, but… Continue reading A Covid accent on everything

“It’s not every day you go on a boat”: 3 days in Sozopol

Sozopol has been an actual holiday type sojourn, a beach-and-trashy-novel day, a restaurant-with-cultural-dancing evening, lots of ice creams eaten while looking at the sea. A 70 km loop bike ride that took me to ancient Thracian standing stones, a ride that was so much more easeful in 29C and without a loaded bike. Susan says… Continue reading “It’s not every day you go on a boat”: 3 days in Sozopol

Kormyansko to Veliko Tărnovo: 70 km, 800 m. Persistence.

My second day of riding was an exercise in persistence. But not persistence like, grit, pushing it hard, more like persistence when the journey owns me, giving myself over to it and accepting what it was. The nutshell is that day 2 was more of day 1, but slightly less terrible. With Deyan’s advice, I… Continue reading Kormyansko to Veliko Tărnovo: 70 km, 800 m. Persistence.